In the autumn of 2012, cyclist Bram Reusen decided to stop daydreaming and take action. He set off on a European cycling tour that would take him 6,200 miles from Belgium to the North Cape in Norway and back again in a loop that took in Scandinavia and several other European countries. In this article, he recounts his journey, and also reveals how many punctures he got …
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Some Thoughts on Cycling Around Scandinavia
Sometimes people dream about doing something crazy. They might dream about starting their own business, although that’s not really that crazy, or they might fantasize about a life selling ice cream on a tropical beach, far removed from a stressful existence. Other people might dream about undertaking that once-in-a-lifetime trip—a trip that they know will change them forever, a trip that is both challenging and rewarding: a trip full of adventure.
I dream a lot too. I always have. In the fall of 2012, I was spending much of my days daydreaming about faraway places, beckoning mountains and new adventures. It was then that I read about a bicycle route that ran from south to north across Europe, all the way from the Rock of Gibraltar in Spain (technically Great Britain) to the North Cape in Norway. This epic bicycle trip appealed to me immediately. I started planning.
Although other than riding a simple bicycle to and from school when I was a child and teenager and some casual mountain biking during summer I didn’t have much cycling experience, I was certain that this was something that was perfect for me. A long-distance bicycle trip has all the ingredients for a fantastic adventure—it is unpredictable; you’re outside all day; the route might lead through wild landscapes; you’re likely to meet new people; and, most important, it leads you through places that you would never visit otherwise.
Belgium to North Cape, Norway
I set off six months later, in the spring of 2013. My plans had changed a bit by then and, instead of cycling from Gibraltar to the North Cape, I would now cycle from my then home in Belgium to the North Cape and back again—a change of plans that was due to my lack of finances to pay for transport to Gibraltar and from the North Cape. My route was a loop, which would eliminate all (or most) transportation costs.
From the moment I was on the road, I loved it. That’s not to say that I loved every aspect of cycling, though. There are a few nuisances, such as headwinds and saddle sores. Those minor discomforts, however, are more than compensated for by the freedom a bicycle provides and the magnificence of the countryside and landscapes you cycle through. But what I loved most was being outside all day every day. Together with walking, cycling is the purest form of traveling. It allows you to feel the wind and sunrays; smell the scents of flowers, pine forests and the sea; and hear the songs of birds and the bubbling of a mountain stream. In a nutshell, it allows you to actually be where you are. Cycling is so great because you’re not sheltered from anything—if it rains, you get wet. This also means that whenever the sun’s out, you enjoy it twice as much. Senses are heightened and experiences are more intense.
From Belgium, I cycled along picture-perfect canals and past the occasional windmill in the Dutch lowlands. As much as I loved being outdoors and seeing a place in such an intimate way, the first week I struggled. I had to battle a fierce headwind for several days and ended up almost getting an infection in both my knees. I took a day off at Hamburg, Germany.
After a two-day rest in Germany’s second-largest city, I pedalled toward the German Baltic Sea coast and northward to Denmark. Stopping in Hamburg was never part of my original plan, but visiting Copenhagen was. I spent three days in the Danish capital, soaking up the peaceful yet lively atmosphere of this jewel of a city, before making my way across the narrow Baltic Sea to Sweden.
Sweden proved to be a challenge. The road signs weren’t perfect and, particularly in towns and cities, I had a hard time finding my way. The scenery, on the other hand, was marvellous. I spent about four weeks cycling through vast, seemingly never-ending pine forests, along the shores of still lakes sparkling in the sun, and through gorgeous wooden villages. Somewhere in northern Sweden, I had my first and only accident of the trip—my rear derailleur broke off and got stuck in my rear wheel. I hitchhiked back and got it fixed in a local bike shop.
After spending a couple of days in Rovaniemi, Finland, visiting the Santa Claus Village and the Arctic Circle, I took a bus—the weather was too bad for cycling at that point—into northern Norway. I reached the North Cape, the halfway point of the trip, after 47 days of cycling.
When I was standing at the North Cape a little past midnight, gazing out over the Arctic Ocean and at the low midnight sun that cast its rays on the calm water, I was glad to have made it that far without any major incident. Up until that point, the weather had been somewhat sunny, but also with numerous spells of heavy rains, strong headwinds and even snowfall. Now, the road would lead south, toward summer and warmer temperature. The road would also take me through some of the world’s most spectacular scenery: the fjords of Norway.
After crossing Norway on my bicycle, on a coastal cruise ship and by car, I travelled from Gothenburg, Sweden, to Immingham, England, on a cargo ship. The way south was a much more relaxed, even vacation-like trip, than the way north, which was more like an expedition, had been.
Once in England, I took my time admiring the gorgeous English countryside with its rolling hills and stunning stone houses and experienced the summer solstice at Stonehenge, the absolutely perfect ending to an incredible journey. Two days later, I was back in Belgium.
I am still surprised how easy this three-month 6,200-mile bicycle trip was. I had no experience whatsoever; other than making sure I had the proper equipment, I didn’t really plan much; and I was all alone. Except for the first few weeks, when it was too cold, it slept in a tent most of the nights. As stunning and memorable it was, the journey didn’t really change me that much—it merely confirmed my assumption that whenever you want something, you could just go and get it. If there’s anything I gained from this trip it is that commitment is the key to everything. If you’re committed to your cause, you’ll do whatever it takes to succeed and nuisances never grow to be more than what they are—nuisances. If you want to explore northern Europe, or any other place with roads in the world for that matter, on two wheels, you can.
I do have to admit that I was pretty lucky, though. I didn’t have one puncture!