Oregon’s Smith Rock National Park is one of America’s premier climbing destinations. Adventurer and avid climber John Hill pays the area a visit to find out why… (Be sure to watch the video)
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Climbing in Smith Rock National Park, Oregon, USA
Tucked away in the hills of Oregon lies one of the North America’s climbing gems. Smith Rock has constant shade, high quality climbing at any grade level, and a climbing community unlike any other in America, including Yosemite’s famous Camp 4. Imagine a climbing mecca with thousands of sport routes, short approaches, and a supportive ranger staff and you have imagined not an impossibility, but Smith Rock. But let’s break it down into pieces we can chew and into something than will actually keep your attention and me from rambling for 1,000 words.
The Climbing
In the early years of climbing Oregon was overlooked. Rangeland and Portland was all that was Oregon until the 1960s and 70s when sport climbing started come into prominence and soon all eyes were are Smith Rock as one of the top sport climbing destinations in the United States.
The rock at Smith Rock is ‘unusual’ at worst but incredible at best. The main areas at Smith Rock are made up of compressed volcanic ash that has formed over millions of years and trapped inside are other pieces of rock, typically basalt. This strange rock formation has given Smith Rock one of its distinctive features that cannot be found anywhere else: nubbins. Climbing on these leads to the ever common cry in Smith Rock, “What is this?”
With over 2,000 sport routes in Smith Rock, miles of hiking trails, and a river to enjoy, it can be hard to decide where to begin. The time of day you climb will surely help dictate this. The orientation of Smith Rock allows for shade at all times of the day somewhere in the park. The backside of the park has morning shade everyday. If sleep is what you need, don’t sweat it because a majority of what exists in Smith Rock is west facing and shaded in the afternoon.
The Dihedrals
If you only make it to one spot in the afternoon, make it The Dihedrals. The Dihedrals take up a relatively small amount of area at Smith Rock but because of the accordion like face is dense with climbing and entertaining even if only to watch. Climbers of all levels gather in the afternoon to climb on these walls. You can see perhaps the most famous sport climb in the world located prominently in the Dihedrals: Chain Reaction.
Chain Reaction
Chain Reaction has been on the cover of Newsweek and although not confirmed it is widely speculated that a certain protein bar founded in Oregon has a climber hanging off of this specific cliff. If climbing isn’t your forte, that’s okay. Because of the cliffs rising out of a high desert, Smith Rock State Park is home to several birds of prey. In a recent summer visit Bald Eagles, Golden Eagles, and Peregrine Falcons were all nesting in the park. The park service works hard to protect the natural habitat for these birds so it is not uncommon to see all three birds in a single day.
The video below is a great introduction to climbing at Smith Rock.
Smith Rock Culture & Redpoint Climbers Supply
Climbing at Smith Rock is only half of the pleasure of spending time at Smith Rock. Don’t misunderstand me, the climbing alone is enough to make it a destination, but the climbing community is just as high quality. Without a doubt the epicenter of culture in Smith Rock is Redpoint Climbers Supply. Redpoint has it all: climbing gear, sleeping pads, hiking guides, climbing guides, coffee, free wifi, and friendly people. If you find yourself in need of climbing partners, advice on what to do in the park, or just great conversation over a cup of coffee in the morning or beer at the end of a long day, Redpoint is the place for you. Redpoint sells local craft beer on tap and are supposed to have signature beer and coffee flavors by 2016. You can also have it to go and have the staff fill your growler. Redpoint is also less than 3 miles from the park and the walk-in campground so it’s an easy commute if you find yourself needing anything like extra draws or a climbing partner.
Smith Rock Campground
The Walk-In campground is unusual at Smith. During the week it’s almost entirely climbers and most of them are full-time residents. Even though it’s only $5 a night to camp, the Bivouac camping area is one of the poshest campgrounds you can find. Free showers, hot water, running toilets, a dish sink, and even a cell phone charging station are a few of the amenities you’ll find at Smith Rock. Remember the culture I mentioned earlier? This is where it truly begins to show. Almost everything at the campground is communal.
The parking lot encircles the community cooking area where every guest (or full-time guest) has to cook their food. This opportunity lets you rub up with some of the areas best adventurers and seek their advice on what you should do the next day or be comforted by the fact the nubbins are strange for everyone. The actual sleeping area in Smith Rock is basically a field where people choose to drop their tents. Personally, I would recommend finding a spot that is in morning shade. The last thing you want is an early morning start with the sun shining directly into your tent after a long night in the community cooking area.
Smith Rock Climbing: Conclusion
What’s the moral of the story? There are a lot of great locations to visit in the Western U.S. Yosemite has big walls, Squamish has the best summer weather for outdoor activities, and Utah is incredible if it isn’t too hot. But don’t leave Smith Rock off of your “Must Visit” list.
John Hill